Tuesday, March 7, 2017

Scratching a 30/06 itch: or : Savage Axis barrel chop attempt #1


One of the great things about having machine tools is you suddenly find a use for other peoples unwanted gun stuff often cheap or free. Old sights, action parts, rails, stock parts and of course barrels....one day while going through the swap and sell forums on a popular shooting forum I came across a few ads for Savage 110 barrels very cheap, which really got my gears turning. The Savage Axis if you do not already know is the economy hunting rifle offering from Savage and has a ton to offer every shooter if you are not a prude that looks down their nose at rifles that don't have a comma in the price. First a bit of back story with what I'm starting with here.

Long story short one of my FFL buddies got a flyer in one of his industry mailings offering dealers a really great price on lots of half a dozen or so Savage Axis rifles that came with a 3-9 scope of some flavor. The price was VERY attractive and I of course showed some restraint only getting one of the rifles. The blowout was due to the AXIS II coming out that fall and the wholesalers needed to clear out the old to make room for the new.  Savage was running a $50 rebate so iirc the rifle was well under $200 delivered and having our choice of calibers I went with the 30/06 since you simply cant go wrong with an "ought six".

When I got the rifle I was somewhat impressed with what we got for the money with one exception, Savage rifles are popular for their ease of re-barreling and upgrading. Lots of guys online have reported the Axis rifle is a fantastic shooting rifle and is WELL worth the money but everybody seems to agree the factory stock is not rigid enough to really instill a ton of confidence to the owner but they do work. There are guys who are reinforcing their stocks, something I might do someday but today is not that day. This more or less is about wanting to make the Axis into more of a working rifle, something that is easy to carry, wont get left behind etc. The only real place we can change dimensions is at the barrel end of things, the factory supplied us with 22" of pipe to work with and that got me thinking something like the following... "hey 20 would be pretty handy...but what about 18".....has anybody ever done a 16.5" 30/06 on a bolt action before?"...turns out the Canadian search and rescue teams field a 14.5" Ruger 77 with a folding stock for bear protection when parachuting or trekking long distances to well...search and rescue. I would love to get my hands on one of those stocks as they look pretty good to me. Well back to the point at hand I started getting some factory take off barrels for the Axis, as it turns out barrels from the Savage 110 and the Stevens 200 will fit. Pick the caliber you want and if you already have the correct bolt head you're mostly good to go to do the swap. As I did not wish to alter the factory barrel just yet I got a few barrels to modify first...At well under $40 each the barrels were a pretty good way to try something else out without putting out a ton of money. The Savage 110 barrels I ended up with were all from different models but all pretty much the same contour and 22" long just like the factory. So lets make a 16.5" 30/06 bolt action!




Factory rifle disassembled 
                          At this point I laid out the barrel I chose to chop with the factory barrel I had marked at 18" for some time seeing how if it FELT like it would be too short or not. The cheap 2nd hand barrel allowed me to go whole hog here and just go super short.

The top barrel marks 18" and the bottom is 16.5...I marked them to get a rough idea of how much thickness I would have if I choose to thread the end for a brake or flash hider.
A quick read up on re-barreling Savage axis rifles will bring up the annoying fact of these tiny tiny beads used to finish the action. I'm not entirely sure if these are tumble type beads or bead blasting type beads but either way they need to be fully removed. Trying to unthread the nut with the beads in place is a good way to cause undue wear.

One major complaint is the beads used in finishing the rifles.
Once I got the old barrel off I needed to chop the new barrel that was going on the rifle. Now here is where I got a bit of a shock....After I cut the barrel with a horizontal band-saw I looked at the new muzzle and WOW was it off center by a LOT. Turns out this is pretty common with mid-grade barrels, the part that threw me was that the breach and old muzzle were pretty straight with the OD of the barrel. which means during the drilling process their bit walked.
Off center muzzle as a result of 5.5" being lopped off the barrel. Wondering if the factory barrels were profiled between centers.

A new muzzle face and crown is important for accuracy as well as having pride in ones work, I set up the barrel on the lathe with a center in the headstock with a dog leg and a cats head to try and get the muzzle to turn true. Nobody ever told me how difficult it is to center something with 3 jaws before using a out of round barrel and a cats head that could probably be cleaned up some. A steady rest with bearings is now on the "to do" list as there is another method I could have used from one of my gunsmithing books that may have been easier and less frustrating than my set up here.
A .302 pin gauge was used as it offered a friction fit in the muzzle to check run out.

Dog leg set up with 30/06 case drilled out for a center installed to protect chamber. 
After I got the barrel as close to true with the BORE as I could I faced the new muzzle cutting from the ID to the OD so as not to risk rolling any material into the bore. I settled on a 11° taper for the new muzzle as this is what most target barrels use.  Part 2 in the works will cover barrel installation and of course the range results. Stay tuned.

Tuesday, January 31, 2017

Butler Creek lens covers or "CYG"....COVER YOUR GL-ASS!


Anybody that knows me in the gun culture context knows I'm not currently a huge user of optics but I do use them. In fact I recently purchased my first "good glass" this past summer with a midway birthday discount and the need to put some good optics on a long range rifle. Oh sure I've had "decent" glass in the past, lots of BSA target scopes which work perfectly fine for the small bore applications I was using them for. A low power Leupold scope on one of my belted magnums and a array of older Weaver "K" series scopes, my favorite being the K2.5x1" I have mounted on my Ruger 77/357.  The "good glass" I purchased this past summer was a higher end Vortex scope and right away I wanted to make sure that the lenses were kept clean and protected. I sought out one product I have used on a few other scopes and think highly of. Butler Creek lens covers....its like floor mats for your BMW...you don't really think of them but you're glad you have them when you get into some mud or wet weather.

Eyepiece cover, press the red toggle with your thumb and...
                             

I'm not sure when Butler Creek came out with these handy lens caps/covers but they sure do make a world of difference when you're hunting or "snap shooting".  I recently purchased a objective lens and eyepiece lens cover set made by Butler creek to accommodate my Weaver K2.5x1". In a quick ebay search a "blizzard" objective lens cover in the size I needed (#1) was found for a couple of bucks shipped new in the package. The "blizzard" has a clear or yellow (depending on model) window which will permit use of the scope while the lens is folded down. If you need to use the scope "full range" then you simply flip up the cover and have at it. The thinking is the lens does distort some light and thus where your cross-hairs are might not be where you think they are.  For the eyepiece I went with the red button pop up cap (#9) new from ebay as well, both caps came in combined for under $14 delivered. 

"Sproing" the cover flies open.

Not a super frugal option but you not going to lose these like you would the production bikini type covers or similar home made inner tube scope covers. Not to mention the flip up caps are very fast to use, rugged and reliable. If you spend $100 or $1000 on a scope for your pistol, rifle or what have you then I would suggest you invest a few more bucks in a fool proof method to protect your investment.


"blizzard" objective lens cover allows the shooter to use while still folded down.



Cap flipped up for use of the scopes full range, when not snap shooting or in close.




The view with the front cap down is just a bit darker than if it were up. No readily noticeable distortion though in this application it would not be used pass 100 yards with the .357mag/38spl

Ruger 77/357, the "Hearing Protection Act" and a job well done.

2016 has come and gone and with it Ruger fans everywhere got a little sad news in mid September that the  rim-fire and pistol caliber series of the rugged, reliable and typically Ruger, 77 bolt actions rifles would be temporarily discontinued. For how long who knows....but when I got the news I thought about how much I've been enjoying my 77/357 and was hoping that Ruger would not only continue its production but also come out with a .327 Federal version as well as other pistol caliber bolt actions. Keeping one eye on what companies were starting to bring into production towards the end of 2016 and the other on the political climate that was Bedlam, USA in a presidential election year I asked myself if there was any work I wanted to get done that I didn't feel comfortable doing myself possibly before things got more tumultuous.  I thought to my beloved 77/357 and the rumors that the HPA was going to make for another push to pass and remembered researching smiths that specialized in 77 barrel threading jobs. 

Barrel prior to front sight set back and threading by JP Grips
For me I not only wanted my 77 threaded for 1/2x28 but wanted to keep a usable front sight with most of the aesthetics that one gets with Ruger sight bands. These days few rifles have serious iron sights and as such the barrels are easily threaded without regard for the irons sights. Factories have caught on now and ship rifles threaded, such as the Savage Axis and other Ruger bolt actions (among many many others, MVP etc) but few such as the Axis have iron sight options which make aftermarket threading of the muzzle easier for home smiths or mail order places, not having irons to index makes life easier. So these jobs where sights are involved start to get more complicated.

Barrel with thread protector in place
I recalled seeing a few photos of some other 77 fans who had their rifles threaded and the front sights "set back" and went in search of who they trusted with their guns. Jim Pixley of "JP Grips and Machine" came up time and time again. I emailed a few individuals who had work done and they were all very pleased with his service. I contacted Jim and arranged to have my action sent out right after Thanksgiving, his quote of $175 for threading, a thread protector, sight set back and return shipping was reasonable to me as this was not something that should be done by somebody who thinks this sort of work can be done quickly or with short cuts. Jim's turn around time was quoted as 1 month and he delivered under that time frame. As I'm giving this review prior to having a can on the barrel I can only give my thoughts on how well the job looks, and I think he did a marvelous job, I don't expect the accuracy has been altered at all from how the rifle has performed prior to the threading but only a trip to the range will tell.

Ready for any 1/2x28 devices, flash hiders, compensators or cans. 
Of course the Hearing Protection Act  is still being hashed out in D.C. as I'm typing this but I think we have a good chance of seeing it pass. If it does I plan on pursuing a Liberty Mystic X as soon as I can....no pun intended.  The Ruger 77/357 is one of the most versatile guns I have ever owned and so far all the little upgrades have made it more enjoyable and more practical for my style of shooting. 

I highly recommend if you plan on getting into any "canned goods" if/when HPA passes that you start considering now what you want as hosts. Getting the threading done now will alleviate what I think will be some painful wait times as I can see custom job shops such as JP Grips getting VERY busy in short order as he also works on the Beretta 92, Buckmark's, Remington 597 and all sorts of other flavors of guns. Below is his website and contact info



http://www.jpgrips.com/page1
jpixley@loretel.net

Tuesday, December 27, 2016

"He looks like a deranged Easter bunny" :or: "You'll shoot your eye out kid"

My sister got me the bunny suit for a good laugh with all of our family and friends, dad got me the reproduction 1803 Harper's Ferry .54 cal flintlock. A rifle I have been wanting for awhile but they are not all that common. Strange how you have to have a background check for a Ruger 10/22 but you can mail order this state of the art (in 1800) .54 military grade "assault rifle" and have it shipped right to your door.  Lots of "watch out Elmer Fudd" jokes went around this Christmas as one can imagine. I will surely treasure this rifle...and the bunny suit as I am thankful for all the gifts and the time that I am able to spend with my family. As we should all be thankful for the time we are given. Merry Christmas and I hope your 2017 is a fine year for you and yours. ~Wonderwolf (aka pink bunny)


Tuesday, November 15, 2016

Skinny reload options for the revolver, two revolver reload options for concealed carry.

This past year I have been looking at different options for carrying extra ammo either loose or on speed strips for the 38/357 combo. I thought  I would cover two options I dug out of "misc leather" boxes at gun shows this past year. One is a component for a shoulder holster rig, using either loose rounds or speed strips (.38 spl only with the speed strips too long otherwise).  The other is a old school ammo pouch for a service revolver rig. The black pouch as far as I can tell was intended to hold 6 -.357 or .38 spl rounds loose and then when required the bottom was opened in much the same fashion as the shoulder holster pouch and you caught the loose rounds and fed them as needed. Dexterity under stress being required, I'm not really sure how I like these two options but it does give one options that are much much thinner than speed loader pouches. The speed loader pouches are not bad however I'm looking for more concealed options don't stick out so much from the body.

Belt option and shoulder holster option pictured above. 
                         

I will be repairing the black pouch in short order as some of the stitching has degraded to the point of failure. The nice thing is the black pouch could also easily hold 2-5 round rimfire magazines if one was carrying a mag fed bolt action. Could also hold loose rounds for the lever actions as well as anything else you may want to have you in the city or the woods. The only issue is the bottom opening feature needs to have a very positive snap so you are not losing your goods.



Simple design and won't take long to fix.

Black snaps would attract less attention but with all the cell phone cases out there it wouldn't take much to make this blend in even without an over garment. 

Friday, November 11, 2016

Time for a mihec .308 hunting bullet mold?

A few months back I was offered a 2 cavity .308 rifle mold made by Mp molds (aka mihec) out of Slovenia  and I turned it down after a lot of thought. My reasons were simple, "I don't need a hollow point .308 rifle mold...I mean...why?".  The thought kept creeping into my head from time to time about getting a .30 cal rifle mold with hollow point options to try but I have been happy with the lee ~150gr FN mold so far I couldn't really justify another ~150gr .30 cal mold. At least until I found myself looking for another Lee 150gr mold to modify for casting hollow points....its at that point I knew I was curious enough about just how versatile a .30 cal hollow pointed rifle mold might be.  The ability to cast both a solid and a HP bullet in the same basic bullet design is highly appealing and even more so with such a versatile caliber platform that is the .30 caliber rifle realm. I've yet to modify the lee mold I acquired but that should happen around the holidays as time permits. I did break down and put my name on the wait list for mihec's rerun of his ".308 hunting bullet", wide meplats and big lube grooves appeal to me as they seem to shoot well and feed well through a wide array of firearms. Looking forward to try this out in the bolt action, semi autos and lever action that are currently sitting idle as I'm currently wait-listed to get a membership to a range in my new location.


As I've covered in previous posts, "mihec" makes (imho) possibly the worlds finest bullet molds. With lots of options, quality materials and superb craftsmanship his molds are quickly surpassing the RCBS and lyman molds in a lot of areas serious bullet casters care about. I own several of his "semi custom" molds and as much as I would like to have free product or be paid for my word I was not paid to say any of this. His molds are simply good enough for free props.  I look forward to try what will be the 2nd rifle mold of his I'll have purchased in the last 2 years. I've been a customer of his for almost 10 years now and am averaging about a mold a year from him....something to be said about quality, though it does come at a price...it is well worth it in the end for the amount of utility one gets from one of his molds.

Thursday, October 6, 2016

CZ 527 7.62x39: or: your Czechoslovakian quickie (review)

CZ has long made quality bolt action rifles in both the center-fire and rim-fire offerings, I'm a huge fan of the 452 and 550 magnum type actions (for the most part) and have recently come into possession of a CZ 527 carbine for a quick review. This 527 is termed a "micro carbine" by CZ and when you pick one up you'll know why. At just under 37.5" long (just short of a meter) and a fuzz over 6 lbs this little carbine is a handy package for the woods. Available in a number of chambers including .204 .223 .222 .221 fireball, .22 and .17 hornet as well as 7.62x39 this carbine offers something to everybody looking to hunt ground hogs to deer sized game.


The example I have in front of me is the 7.62x39 version, I picked this as one does not come across a true .310 barreled 7.62x39 bolt action rifle easily. Most 7.62x39 offerings domestically tend to use a .308 bullet which is noble however annoying if you're trying to use surplus ammo sometimes.  All my 7.62x39 guns thus far are of Russian decent so I'm not sure how much of a issue surplus ammo might be in those .308 barreled guns but I'm willing to bet many a forum thread has been dead horsed on the subject. 

Annoyingly (for one handed carrying) the balance point is right at the magazine

As it were I thought the 527 in the 7.62x39 selection would be a handy package for the compact carbine collection and kind of is but it has some draw backs. Some of which can be fixed....others that can't be so easily.

I like the gun, its size and weight are great and holy crap does this thing shoot. When fed top shelf ammo (Lapua) it will give you some impressive groups. Now admittedly I never shot this with a scope (con- proprietary scope rings) so my groups were all with the irons. 5 shots in a playing card is easy with the irons at 50 yards, 100 yards you can double that unless you go with glass in which case you'll probably clover leaf shots.  Even the steel cased ammo shot very well, anybody who says the 7.62x39 is not a accurate round can go ahead and leave now. The rifle has a set trigger that can also help shrink groups even more. The gun bucks as a 6 lb carbine chambered in a mid power 30 caliber cartridge should and throws quite a muzzle flash when conditions are right.

After the first or second range trip I had to send the rifle back to the factory to be restocked. The recoil and the tight fit of the stock in the rear did not go well together and split the stock in 2 places at the tang of the receiver. CZ put the action in a new stock and bedded the recoil lug for me and I've had no problems since.  A friend who shot it noticed the bolt key-ways need cleaned up a bit and I agree they could be smoother as well. 

Inline image 1
Cracks in stock after fewer than 50 rounds

I do like the carbine but I'm not SOLD on it fully yet as a useful addition to the selection. The shortcomings are pretty significant,  adjustable sights being a huge one for me, for what you pay for the carbine I feel as though adjustable sights should be there. At least give the customer a few different height front sights to swap out, the rear is drift-able (word?)  for windage but one front insert is not enough especially if you are using steel cased ammo vs something hotter like older Yugoslavian stuff.

Pros-
Light weight
Accurate
Ammo availability
Strong action
Robust

Cons-
Balance point for carrying (is ok to carry magazine up one handed)
Carbine & spare magazine cost
Semi fixed irons
Slippery stock out of the box
Backwards safety ( forward is safe)

So there it is, my thoughts on the CZ 527 in 7.62x39, its a great little carbine and has a TON of potential. If you're looking for a bolt action rifle to share ammo with your SKS or AK's this is your answer....scope it and you'll be very happy.  It is very utilitarian in all areas except cost if you decide to try and grab one of these sweet carbines prepare for a little sticker shock.  I think a suppressor would be marvelous on this as well but as of now CZ does not offer any threaded from the factory.






Thursday, September 15, 2016

Introduction to the 310 tong tool: part 3


In the previous two sections we've covered the tong tool handles, the variations and their features as well as the die identification you should be aware of when trying to identify dies that can be successfully used in a 310 tong tool. In this third section we'll briefly cover die set up and adjustment. Please note instructions for the Lyman 310 tool can be found here on Lyman own website as they still produce and support this unique tool. However these instructions are for the 4 die sets, this tutorial will cover 5 die set up procedures.

As I may have mentioned in one of the first 2 sections you will want a dedicated screwdriver that fits the set screws for the lock rings on the 310 dies. They are quite small and some can be quite set deep into the lock-ring depending on the era the dies were made, so it is important to have a hollow ground screwdriver (Chapman makes a nice set) that will not damage the screw or the lock-ring itself.

I will go over how to set up a 5 die set, much the same as the 4 die set in the Lyman instructions but with the sizing/decapping die functions separated into 2 dies.

First step is to decap all your fired cases, select the "universal" decap die and adjust it so that the decap pin sticks out past the handles about about 3/16" ..ish. The important thing is the pin pops the primer out and does not bottom out on the brass or hit the opposing handle (broken pin).

The nice thing is if you have 2 sets of handles and 2 universal decap dies you may set one up for both handles and never worry about having to adjust them again. They will work for all of your 5 die sets! If you have 310 PRESS dies I believe you can take the decapping rod assembly out and use them just like a 5 die set.
De-cap pin stick out, you run the risk of breaking the pin if you have it lower than necessary.


decap brass, note how far the hook extracts the case.





The next step is to size your fired brass. The die for this step in a 5 die set does not have threads on the inside (where a decap stem, seater or expander is typically threaded). A little lube is recommended although I've never used any with my .38/357 pistol set, I can however see the wisdom in the recommendation.

MR die (neck sizing) 


Adjust die until it is sizing the brass as far down as you plan to seat the bullet.
Pro tip- If you have trouble figuring out how far down the sizer is touching the brass it is recommended that you use a sharpie and color the neck then size. Where the die has touched you will see scratches in the sharpie mark. Layout fluid is also an option.

Die has sized brass as far down as I wish to seat the bullet. Note lower ring on neck

Next we set up the priming die, if you need to clean your primer pockets now is the time to do that. To set up the priming die we loosen the thumb nut and adjust the die with the handles closed until #1 the plunger sticks up into where the brass sits by a little bit and #2 the open part of the shell holder faces us. Set up the tool to the "handedness" you will be using it. I use mine in my left hand so I set it up as pictured below.

Priming chamber installed and ready to adjust.


Amount of protrusion we want for the priming plunger with the handles closed. Any more and we will lose the advantage of leverage. 

It is recommended that you practice priming with "dead" primers if this is the first time you have used a hand priming device. Make sure the primer is oriented correctly and gently squeeze, after a few times you will learn the feel of it and know how much pressure to use.

Case being primed, drop a primer atop the plunger and close gently.

Next we will gently expand or "flare" the case mouth if needed. If we have not chamfered the case mouth and we are loading say a boat tail bullet it is recommended we put a slight flair on the mouth to keep from scraping at the bullet jacket. If we are loading cast then we will need to flare to prevent shaving lead while seating cast bullets.
This is the only type of expander die set up that will work with a 310 tong tool 


Die body is threaded in and stem is installed to desired depth, it is recommended to start backed out and turn 1/2 turn in until desired effect is reached.
If you are getting varying degrees of flare at the case mouth you may be needing to trim your brass as it is not uniform between cases. Trimming options will not be covered here at this time but should be in the not so distant future.


Case in flare die as we are loading cast bullets.
Next we select our bullet seating die which also has the option to crimp the bullet in place (you would of course add powder at this step). Just like normal reloading dies it is a good idea to work out your bullet seating depth first and then crimp the bullet in place and adjust the dies accordingly. You do this by starting with the seating stem further in the die body as to bypass the crimp option. Make small adjustments as needed and once the depth is where you want it you can remove the seating stem entirely if you wish.  Now thread the die body in with the handles closed until you feel a little resistance. It is possible to over crimp with these dies so small adjustments go a very long way. After that is all figured out screw the seating stem back in tightly until it touches the loaded round with handles close.


2 seating stems are shown, as often with die sets the stems are for 2 different nose profiles of bullets.
Round nose and spitzer type seating stems are pictured.
Seating die installed in handles  adjusted to seat a flat nose cast bullet.

Though this is a powder-less dummy round for set up it is important to remember that there will be powder in the case and that keeping everything upright to prevent spilled powder is ideal!

Saturday, September 10, 2016

Introduction to the Lyman 310 tong tool: Part 2

In part 1 we looked at the difference and features of the handles that were needed to use the 310 dies. Here in part 2 we see what we need to be looking for in purchasing our tong tool dies either as a group of dies or as individual dies to replace missing dies. As I briefly alluded  the 310 dies come in 2 types, dies intended to be used with the reloading press and dies meant for the tong tools.  It should also be understood that by design the 310 dies are meant to only neck size! There are some full length sizing options out there but those are for the press only. This is fine for bolt actions, single shots and lever actions however most semi auto guns will not like ammo made that have only been neck sized. The die sets you will need for tong tools need to have a "M" type expander, if you have a die set that has the expander AND the decapper in the same die you may run into troubles.

L- 4 die set, R-5 die set


Four die sets have the neck sizer and the decapper in the same die (seen in following pictures). This is fine as it is only the sets that decap and bell or have the button sizer that is drawn back through the neck that you will need to avoid. It is because the hook does not stay engaged with the case long enough to pull it back over that expander. As such either of the die sets pictured above are suitable for the tong tools.

Aforementioned hook shows just how far it will extract a 30/06 case before it disengages. 

4 die set, note left die is both decapper and neck sizer  as opposed to being 2 dies in 5 die sets

5 die sets, The "Universal" type decapping die and then the "muzzle resizer" which is the neck sizer are the left most 2 dies.
 Something to note in the above picture the "Universal" type decapping die assembly is one give away you may be looking at a 5 die set for the tong tool. Most die sets for use in the reloading press set ups will have a skinny stem with a button part way up the stem, note the fatter threaded rod in the "universal" decap die.
Another view of decap/sizer die from 4 die set and the 2 dies that perform the same operation from 5 die set.
In the pictures below we start to take a look at the expander dies as another way to identify die sets for use with the 310 tong tool. If the die set you are looking at combines these two operations into one die it is not for the tong tool but for the press.

Here we see the "universal" decap stems from 2 rifle die sets as well as the "M" type expander die.

These expander dies were taking from 3 different sets, 30/06, 30-30 and 357. Note die body length difference between the three.

Close up of expander die body and stem from 30-30 die set.
 In the next picture we see the decap, sizing and expanding operation combined all into one die. This die as is will not work with the tong tool handles. You could remove the expander button however you'll still need a way to expand the case mouth.

This die intended for the 310 series of bench presses WILL NOT work for our tong tool handles!

Left-310 dies for expanding case mouth and decapping. R- die for the press that combines these operations.

Differences in stem sizes, Also note on right die "CMR" stamp that denotes this as a "combination muzzle re-sizer die"
Another clue you might be looking at a 310 tong tool die set is the priming unit  that has a built in shell holder and captive plunger assembly but it is not a absolute as this was something that could also be used on the press. The bullet seater die (double adjustment) is the same so far as I understand it between the press dies and the tong toll type dies. I mentioned the bullet seater as having double adjustments because the stem is threaded as well. I have yet to see a non adjustable type bullet seater however I'm sure they are out there.

Priming unit shown as 2nd die from left and double adjustable bullet seating die shown far right

This may seem confusing at first (I sure was) but it is worth understanding if your wanting to build a reloading set up that takes up very little space and is easy to use. The 310 tong tool is still a relevant system perfect for the RV or cabin. In the next  part we will go over die adjustments and set up for reloading.